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Irrigation & Drainage

Water where you want it. Nowhere you don't.

Sprinkler problems are almost never where they look like they are. A soggy patch in the lawn is usually a cracked line six feet away. A zone that won't come on is usually a solenoid, not the controller everyone blames first.

We find it before we dig, which is the difference between a repair and a project.

The other half of this is drainage, and around here it matters more than people expect. We get most of our rain in a handful of hard storms, and a yard that sheds it toward the house instead of away costs far more to fix later than a drain costs now.

What's included

  • Spring turn-on and system check
  • Head, valve and line repair
  • Fall winterization and blowouts
  • Controller and timer setup
  • Drip irrigation install and repair
  • Leak location
  • French drains and surface drainage
  • Grading for runoff

How a zoned system should be laid out

Plan view of a correctly zoned irrigation system A house sits in the middle of a property. Three turf areas are on spray zones one, two and three. Two planted and rock areas are on drip zones four and five. A valve manifold beside the house feeds each zone on its own line, so lawn and beds are never watered on the same valve. PROPERTY LINE HOUSE Z1Z2Z3 Z4Z5 MANIFOLD
Five zones, not one. Spray on turf, drip in beds — never the two on one valve. Beds need a fraction of the water a lawn does, so sharing a zone means one of them is always wrong. Most valley systems we open up are running two or three overworked zones.

What is actually under a french drain

Cross-section through a french drain beside a foundation Ground slopes away from a house foundation. Below the surface a trench is lined with filter fabric and filled with gravel. A perforated pipe sits at the bottom with its holes facing up, falling at least one percent toward an outlet lower than the start. GRADE — SLOPED AWAY FROM THE HOUSE FOUNDATION FILTER FABRIC — WRAPS THE WHOLE TRENCH PERFORATED PIPE, HOLES UP FALL — 1% MINIMUM
Three things decide whether it works. The perforations face up, so water enters from above — that is the commonest mistake. The fabric goes in first, or the trench silts up within a couple of seasons. And it has to daylight lower than it starts: a drain that ends nowhere is just a buried bathtub.

Who calls us for this

One zone stopped working and you have no idea which valve it is.

A wet spot in the lawn that never dries out, or a dry one that never greens up.

Water pooling against the foundation every time it actually rains here.

What drives the price

There's no rate card on the site yet, because a made-up range helps nobody. Here's what actually moves the number:

  • Whether it's one repair or a system that needs several
  • How deep the line is and what's on top of it — lawn is easy, a patio is not
  • Number of zones for a turn-on, blowout or controller job
  • Whether we can find the problem from the surface or have to trace it
  • For drainage: length of run and where the water has to go

Questions we get

When should I blow out my sprinklers in Grand Junction?

Book it for October. You want it done before the first hard freeze, and the last two weeks of October get busy fast — everyone calls the same week the forecast turns.

What happens if I skip the blowout?

Water left in the lines freezes and splits them, and you find out in April when you turn the system on and a zone floods. A blowout costs a fraction of that repair.

My controller says a zone is on but nothing happens. Is it the controller?

Usually not. Most often it's the valve solenoid or the wire to it. We check the cheap things first.

Can you convert my sprinklers to drip?

Yes, and in beds it's usually worth it. Drip puts water at the roots instead of into the air, which matters a lot in July here.

Do you handle ditch and irrigation water systems?

Tell us what you've got when you call. A lot of Orchard Mesa and Palisade properties run on ditch water and it's a different setup than city pressure.

Get a free estimate

Under a minute, and there's no charge to come look. Or just call (970) 258-8791.

Step 1 of 7

Step 1: what do you need

What do you need?

Pick the side of the house. If it's both, say both — that's normal.

Step 2: which service

Which service?

Not sure? Pick the closest one — we'll sort it out when we call.

Step 3: where is the job

Where is the job?

Step 4: how soon

How soon?

Step 5: tell us about it

Tell us about it

The more you tell us, the closer the number will be before we're even out there.

Step 6: how do we reach you

How do we reach you?

Best way to reach you
Review and send

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Change anything with Back. No charge to come look, and no obligation after.

That's in.

Keep that reference handy. We'll call you back — if you'd rather not wait, ring us and quote that code.

Call (970) 258-8791 Back to the site

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